Montevideo Travel Guide: Rambla and Old Town

When the Palacio Salvo opened in 1928, its 95 meters made it the tallest building in South America, and it held that title for several years. It was built on the site of the old Café La Giralda, where the tango "La Cumparsita" was first played. A skyscraper on top of a tango: that is Montevideo in one image. The city is relaxed, a bit melancholic and much better than its reputation as "the place you pass through on the way to Punta del Este".

Here is how to see the best of it in two or three days, with what things roughly cost and what to skip.

Getting there and getting around

From Buenos Aires: the usual route is a fast ferry to Colonia del Sacramento (about 1 hour 15 minutes) and then a bus to Montevideo (roughly 2.5 to 3 hours). Some companies sell combined boat plus bus tickets. Prices change with season, so compare Buquebus and Colonia Express for your date.
From the airport (MVD): a taxi or app ride to the center takes around 25 to 30 minutes. Buses are cheaper but slower.
On the ground: Ciudad Vieja, Centro and the Rambla are very walkable. For farther barrios, buses work with a local card, and ride apps are common.
Money: Uruguay uses the peso uruguayo (UYU). Dollars are often accepted in tourist areas. In recent years foreign visitors paying with a foreign card got a VAT refund at restaurants and hotels during part of the year, but verify the current rules before you count on it.

Ciudad Vieja: where the city started

Montevideo was founded by the Spanish in the 1720s on a small peninsula, as a military counterweight to Portuguese Colonia. Its walls and the main gate, the Puerta de la Ciudadela, stood at the edge of today's Plaza Independencia. Only the gate survives.

Walk west along the pedestrian street Sarandí, past the Teatro Solís (1856), the city's grand opera house. The interior is open on guided visits most days, usually at set times, so check the theatre website. Keep going to Plaza Matriz, the oldest square, with the cathedral and the Cabildo. On weekends, the flea market on Plaza Constitución and the stalls along Peatonal Sarandí are a good place for antiques and mate gourds.

Ciudad Vieja is quiet in the evening and some streets feel empty after dark. It is generally fine during the day, but as in any big city, do not flash your phone, and take a taxi late at night.

Plaza Independencia and the Palacio Salvo

The central square is dominated by the statue of General Artigas, the national hero, with his mausoleum underneath (free, with a changing of the guard). Facing it, the Palacio Salvo is a mix of Gothic, Art Nouveau and whatever else its Italian architect, Mario Palanti, felt like adding. Visiting the terrace and upper floors usually means joining a guided tour from the lobby, offered in Spanish and English. Schedules change, so confirm on the spot. If you want a free view, the Torre Antel observation deck is a good alternative, and you can see the Salvo from it.

The Rambla: 22 km of seafront

The Rambla is the promenade that runs along the Río de la Plata for roughly 22 kilometers, one of the longest in the world. This is where Montevideo lives. On a warm evening, thousands of people sit on the wall with a thermos under one arm and a mate in hand. Join them.

Pocitos is the most popular beach district, with a long beach and plenty of cafés.
Playa Ramírez and Parque Rodó are nearer the center.
The sunset over the water is the best free show in town. Walk or rent a bike for part of it.

Mercado del Puerto: the grill temple

Built in 1868 and covered by an iron structure brought from England, the Mercado del Puerto is full of parrillas where meat is cooked over open coals. Order a chivito, Uruguay's national sandwich: thin steak, ham, cheese, egg, tomato, lettuce and more, often with fries on the side. Or go for a parrillada mixta. A typical lunch is more expensive in the market than in a neighborhood parrilla, so if you are on a budget, eat nearby instead. To drink, try the local Tannat wine, or a medio y medio, a half white wine, half sparkling wine mix.

Candombe, the rhythm of the city

If you hear drums in the street, it is probably candombe, the Afro-Uruguayan music born in the Barrio Sur and Palermo neighborhoods, recognized by UNESCO in 2009. The main show is the Llamadas parade, held in the neighborhoods of Barrio Sur and Palermo around February, when dozens of drum groups march at night. Outside of carnival season, you can still hear rehearsals in these barrios some evenings, and the Museo del Carnaval in Ciudad Vieja and the Museo Gurvich give context. Always ask before filming people.

A short list of other stops

Palacio Legislativo: an impressive marble building with guided visits, usually free (bring ID).
Mercado Agrícola (Mercado Agrícola de Montevideo): a renovated market with food stalls, good for dinner.
Museo Torres García: the Uruguayan artist who flipped the map of South America upside down.
Day trips: Colonia del Sacramento and the wine region around Canelones are the easiest.

Practical tips

Best time: October to April for the Rambla and the beach. The summer is warm, winter is mild but windy and damp.
Time needed: two days for the main sights, three if you want beaches and a day trip.
Safety: Montevideo is one of the safer capitals in Latin America, but petty theft happens. Keep your bag close and do not leave phones on café tables.
What to skip: the cruise port area has little to see. Spend that time on the Rambla instead.

Explore Montevideo with Trevurs

To understand why a small country built such an odd city, take a Trevurs audio tour. Our free, self-guided tour "The avant-garde socialism nobody remembers" explains the early 20th century reforms that made Uruguay one of the most experimental countries in the world, and walks you through the places where they happened. It works offline, so download it before you leave your hotel and walk at your own pace.

Montevideo Travel Guide: Rambla, Mercado del Puerto and Ciudad Vieja