Cusco and Machu Picchu: Tickets, Trains and Altitude
Machu Picchu sits at about 2,430 m, but you do not sleep there: you sleep in Cusco at 3,400 m, and that number is what will actually decide how your trip goes. Most people spend months planning the ticket and zero minutes planning their lungs. Here is the order that works.
Start in Cusco, not at the ruins
Cusco is the old Inca capital and the logical base. Give yourself two full days here before anything else. Locals will offer coca tea (mate de coca) the moment you land, and it is genuinely part of the routine. Walk slowly, drink water, go easy on alcohol and heavy meals on day one. Soroche (altitude sickness) shows up as headache, nausea and a bad night's sleep. If it hits hard, descend: the Sacred Valley sits around 2,800 m and is much kinder. Ask a doctor about acetazolamide before you travel if you are prone to it.
Plaza de Armas, the Cathedral, Qorikancha and the stone walls of Hatunrumiyoc are all in the compact center. The Boleto Turistico covers Sacsayhuaman, Q'enqo, Puka Pukara, Tambomachay and many Sacred Valley sites. The full pass costs around S/130 for foreign adults (partial circuits around S/70), and it is mainly sold in person at COSITUC, so verify the current price and where to buy it. It does not include Machu Picchu.
Tickets: the part that changed
Machu Picchu is now sold by circuit and time slot. You pick a route, an entry window (morning or afternoon blocks, with entry allowed during a limited hour), and you follow a one-way path with no backtracking. The routes are numbered in circuits, and some add a climb.
- Standard circuits: around S/152 for a foreign adult, plus a conservation fee reported at about S/11 since May 2026 (so roughly S/163, or US$45).
- Routes with a climb (Huayna Picchu, Machu Picchu Mountain, Great Cavern): around S/200 plus the fee. Huayna Picchu is the steep peak behind the classic postcard and is limited to roughly 400 people per day in two slots. Machu Picchu Mountain is a different ticket, and no single ticket covers both.
- Booking: use the official Ministry of Culture site (machupicchu.gob.pe) or an authorized agency. Reserve weeks ahead for the dry season (May to September) and months ahead for Huayna Picchu.
- Passport: the ticket is tied to your name and passport number. Bring the same passport.
Sources disagree on exact prices and daily caps, so treat the numbers as a guide and confirm at checkout.
Getting there
There is no road to Aguas Calientes, the town at the foot of the ruins. The usual route is:
- Cusco to Ollantaytambo by taxi, colectivo or tour van (about 2 hours through the Sacred Valley).
- Ollantaytambo to Aguas Calientes by train, about 1 h 40 min. PeruRail and Inca Rail run it. Basic classes are commonly reported from about US$50 to 65 one way, premium cars from US$70 to 100 or more. Book early for your slot.
- Aguas Calientes to the gate by Consettur bus (roughly 25 minutes up the switchbacks) or on foot for about an hour and a half. Bus round-trip prices are reported anywhere from about US$12 to 24, so check, and buy in advance if possible. The first bus leaves around 5:30 AM and lines can be long.
Arrive at the gate with margin: entry is only allowed during your slot window. Overnight in Aguas Calientes if you want the early light, otherwise a day trip from Cusco is long but possible, about 12 to 14 hours.
What to see inside
Inside, follow the arrows. Highlights include the Temple of the Sun, the Intihuatana (a carved stone ritual marker), the Temple of the Three Windows and the main plaza with its resident llamas. The famous postcard viewpoint is near the upper entrance, and it is best in the early hours when the mist lifts off Huayna Picchu.
Bring your passport, a light rain jacket (it rains even in the dry season), sunscreen, insect repellent, and small snacks. Large backpacks, tripods and food are restricted, and you cannot re-enter. Guides are required at the gate, so arrange one in advance or hire one at the entrance, and confirm the current rules.
How many days
- Minimum: 3 days (Cusco, Machu Picchu day trip, Cusco).
- Better: 5 days, with two for altitude adjustment, one in the Sacred Valley (Pisac, Ollantaytambo, Moray), one for Machu Picchu.
- Skip: trying to cram Rainbow Mountain in your first 48 hours. It tops 5,000 m and punishes anyone who has not acclimatized.
Cusco before the trek
Cusco's history is brutal and fascinating: the Inca city was reshaped by the Spanish in 1533, and Catholic churches rise directly on Inca foundations. Walking it with context makes Machu Picchu land harder, because you see what the empire built and what replaced it.
Explore Cusco with Trevurs
Trevurs has a free, self-guided audio tour for Cusco: Cusco: The Navel of the World, the Incas and the Conquest. It walks you through the Inca capital, its stone walls and the colonial layers on top, and it works offline, which is handy when the altitude and spotty signal conspire against you. Download it in your hotel on Wi-Fi, take it slowly, and let your lungs do the pacing. Free, no guide to book, and no schedule to keep.
